Johnsons's Garden Centers Text File document - copyright 2007
PDF file available at http://www.johnsonsgarden.com/newsletter/flowers.html

Forcing The Issue Of Bulbs
November 2007
Lisa Bornholdt, Johnson's Ridge Rd. Greenhouse Manager

    As a child, I can remember forcing bulbs with my Dad. We would pot
up the bulbs and store them under our potting bench, covering the pots
with poly film (black plastic) until it was time to force blooming. We
would then bring the potted bulbs into a warmer area and watch them
change day by day. Tulips and hyacinths were the main bulbs Dad and I
forced. Those remain two of my favorites to this day. Forcing bulbs is a
fun and simple project for all ages. Follow these simple steps and you,
too, can create beautiful indoor winter gardens and special memories.

Planting the Bulbs
    Choose from tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, crocus and lily of the
valley. Select large unblemished bulbs. Many bulbs are sold specifically
for forcing. Bulbs can be grown in almost any container as long as it
has drainage holes in the bottom.

    Begin by partially filling your container with ferti-lome Ultimate
Potting Mix, then mix in the appropriate amount of Dutch Bulb Food.
Place bulbs wide end down on top of the soil so their tops sit just
below the rim of the pot. The bulbs should be close together, but should
not touch each other or the pot. Position the flat side of the bulb
toward the outside of the pot. When positioned this way, the large lower
leaf of each bulb will grow outward over the container creating an
attractive border around the edge of the pot. Once bulbs are properly
placed, add additional soil leaving only the tops of the bulbs exposed.
Water thoroughly.

Chilling and Forcing
    Bulbs have to go through two "false seasons." The first is a
chilling period to simulate winter. You will need to place your potted
bulbs in a dark area at a temperature between 32-42 degrees. If you're using
an unheated garage or basement, you can cover the pots with newspaper or
paper bags. If you have room in the vegetable section of your
refrigerator, the pots should be covered with plastic bags that have a
few breathing holes punched in them. The optimum cooling period is 12-17
weeks. Water bulbs regularly and keep them in complete darkness.

    This is where you'll bring your bulbs into that second "false
season." You can now take your pots out of cold storage and introduce
them into warmth and light to simulate spring. Place the pots in a cool
location (60-65 degrees) receiving indirect sunlight for the first 3-5 days.
Then you can move them into a warmer, brighter area of your home. Flower
buds can be expected within 3-4 weeks.


Amaryllis and Narcissus
    Some bulbs can be forced without going through the cooling process.
Two of the most common are amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus. A single
amaryllis bulb in each pot works best. The pot needs to be approximately
2" wider than the diameter of the bulb. Use a container with drainage
holes in the bottom. Add ferti?lome Ultimate Potting Mix. Center the
bulb in the pot. Add additional potting mix until half of bulb is
covered. Water and place in a warm, well lit location.

    Narcissus are probably the simplest bulbs to force. You can plant
paperwhites in pebbles, sand or marbles. All you will need is a
container without drainage holes. Glass, ceramic, plastic, even metal
will work, as long as it will hold water.  Plant bulbs with their wide
ends down and the top inch of each bulb above the soil/pebble line.
Plant close together but not touching; add enough water to come within 3/4
inch of the top of the pebbles. If you prefer to use ferti-lome Ultimate
Potting Mix, choose a pot with drainage holes. Plant as directed and
water thoroughly. In either case, place the pot in a warm, bright
location.

    Whether this is a project you do alone, with a child, or with a
friend, I hope you too will grow wonderful memories as well as beautiful
indoor winter gardens. Happy Potting.